Carbon build-up around burners on a flat-top stove is a common problem. There are many products on the market that can help, but they all seem to leave something behind. A method that I recently stumbled upon is to use a razor blade to gently remove the carbon.
To clean up the mess, I pre-soaked the build-up with isopropyl alcohol, then scraped gently with a razor blade scraper. I kept the razor at a low angle and held steady pressure to prevent scratching the surface of the stove. Overall, I was very pleased with the results and it took much less work than I have previously put in with compounds and abrasive pads.
This homeowner had done the work of installing a tile hearth for their antique fireplace but needed help with the finished edge. Wood transitions, thresholds and other low-profile, “rabbited” trim came to mind, but the homeowner wanted something brass and flush to the tile. The product we used is more often seen in commercial tile applications, but it made a nice, low-profile edge for this hearth.
Finishing the exposed edges of a tile installation can be a subtle process. To clean this up, we used an “edge profile” from Schluter Systems. The specific profile used was 1/4″ RONDEC in a brushed brass finish (Model #:RO60AMGB). A few extra pieces from Schluter for the outside corners and baseboard terminations were also used (Model #:IV/RO60AMGB and Model #:EV/RO60AMGB).
The edge profiles were cut and fit with a diamond blade. They were then glued to teh floor with construction adhesive. The placement of the RONDEC allowed enough space for the homeowner to border the hearth with an uncut tile. The result was a nice improvement.
Paint/Grout ratio = 8:1 (Example: Mix 1 tablespoon of grout with 1 cup of paint)
Sift the grout into the paint to remove any large clumps. Stir until homogeneous.
Clean and dry the area to be painted.
Prime the area to be painted and allow to dry.
Tape off the area and then apply chalkboard paint with a sponge roller or sponge brush to achieve a smooth finish. (Apply in several thin coats for best finish)
Lightly sand the painted area to remove any high spots or inconsistency.
Wipe clean with a damp dust cloth.
Pre-condition the new chalkboard by turning a piece of chalk on edge and rubbing the entire surface of the board. Wipe away the residue with a damp sponge. By doing this it will reduce permanent “ghosting” of the first few things you write on the board. Using less-dense “artist’s” chalk will also make erasing much easier.
This table is HUGE! I wanted a table that could seat more than a traditional, rectangular design. Although it looks intimidating, there are relatively few steps involved in its construction. A few of the steps will require two people and you will definitely need a few buddies to help carry it to its final position in the yard. It also really helps to have a flat surface on which the table can be assembled. The height of the seats and table surface are the standard 18″ and 30″ respectively, but the width of the table is over 9 feet.
Compound Miter Saw
Drill / Impact Driver
Socket Set (for bolts)
Sander & Sandpaper
2x4s Pressure Treated
3 1/2″ Deck Screws
3/4″ Pressure Treated Plywood
2x6s Pressure Treated
4″ Deck Screws
Deck Stain or Outdoor Paint (Optional)
Creating the Components
You will need to cut three (3) tie-plates for this project. To make the design, just draw 2 lines, ninety degrees apart, then rotate 45° and repeat. Place a scrap piece of 2×4 over the center of the lines and trace around it to achieve the proper thickness.
There are, of course, many ways to patch holes in drywall, all of which have their advantages and disadvantages. The “California Patch” or “Butterfly Patch” is a nice technique if you don’t have any drywall tape or if you are trying to minimize the thickness of the finished repair. Adding layers of seam-tape and compound can be undesirable in certain applications, especially well-lit ceilings…This is where the California patch can be a very handy solution.
Utility (Razor) Knife
Drywall Knives (size depends on area being repaired)
I. Prepare the Damaged Area
· Shine a flashlight into the hole to check for any studs, electrical wires, or plumbing that could be damaged with a saw
· Use a square to draw a rectangle around the damaged area
· Cut out the rectangle with a keyhole saw
· Locate any nearby studs or joists – If there is a stud/joist nearby it may be convenient to widen the hole and use the existing wood as a support
· If no stud/joist is near the hole, create a brace by using a piece of 1×2 or scrap lumber.
· Clean up the edges of the new hole with a surform tool and a sanding sponge
· Wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to remove excess dust
II. Making the Patch
· Measure the new hole
· Transfer the measurements to the back side of a scrap piece of drywall and add a two inch border around the perimeter.
· Score along the lines and into the drywall gypsum – do not cut through the paper on the front side
· Snap the outside pieces off that surround the center rectangle and gently peel them away from the paper on the front side.
· You should be left with the center rectangle with a 2″ flap of paper around the perimeter
· Clean up the edges of the patch with a surform tool and a sanding sponge
· Test fit the center rectangle into the hole that was cut earlier
III. Apply the Patch
· While holding the patch in the hole, trace around the outside of the 2″ flap onto the existing drywall
· Remove the patch and score along the lines made in the previous step (just deep enough to cut through the paper facing)
· Remove the paper surrounding the hole by slowly peeling away from the gypsum
· Test fit to see if the flap lays flush without overlapping
· If using a brace, install it now – If you place the screws inside the area where the tape is removed, it will be easier to conceal
· With everything fitting nicely, go ahead and apply mud to the perimeter of the patch, under the flap
· Apply a bit of mud around the perimeter of the hole where the face-paper was removed
· Place the patch into the hole and secure with drywall screws
· Use a drywall knife to set the flap and to squeeze out excess compound
· Wait until the compound is dry and knock down any high spots with the drywall knife by scraping over the surface at a low angle
· Thin down a bit of compound with water (spray bottle works well) and skim the entire surface to blend the repair with the existing drywall
This is my latest contribution to the rain collection scene here in the Triangle. There is a very active market for rain barrels in our area and several of the popular designs found on-line originate here. Most designs feature bare barrels which are fitted with hoses, screens, adapters, and valves. They are simple and effective but are the bane of many neighborhood associations because they look like drums of toxic waste that are likely to produce mutant mosquitoes.
This new design houses two 30 gallon HDPE drums cradled in a hardwood base with a screen enclosure. Following the norm in rain harvesting, this system utilizes predominantly re-purposed materials. The heavy-duty wood cradle adds stability and greatly improves the overall appearance of the system. A screened cover stops leaf buildup, and keeps insects and spiders from taking up residence.
· 30 Gallon HDPE Drums x 2
· Dimensions ≈ 3′ x 3.5′ x 3′ – ( L x W x H )
· 60 Gallon Capacity
· Stable Base to Prevent Overturning
· All Parts are Common and Easily Obtained at Local Hardware Stores
While working on a few projects with my father-in-law I realized that my tools are getting out of control. It always seems like you can’t finish a project without getting out every tool you own, so it is time to get organized! Wood for this project is reclaimed hardwood bracing from a local granite supplier. I will be working on this a few hours a day (in my free time) and will update this post with any significant changes.
To simplify the cutting of all twenty-four upright pieces I made a crude auxiliary fence with a stop set at 15 inches.
It is starting to look like something useful now. I will be adding sides and interior dividers before sanding and painting.
While I was working a giant moth flew into the garage. It hung out on the wood-pile until I set it free later in the afternoon.
There are several methods that can aid in hanging those tricky picture frames and shelves. You know the ones…with the extremely specific screw holes, that must be perfectly aligned. Using masking tape to make a template is a very easy solution to this problem.